Endurance helps your Mac run 20% longer. No matter how good your battery is, everyone could use a little more battery power! Endurance is an app that helps your Mac run longer. Endurance runs in the background and when your battery level drops to a certain level, it automatically starts adjusting your settings and turning off features which use.
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Knowledge Base : Tools : Calculator | Sizing a 12 Volt Battery to a Load
Do you need a 12 volt battery for your application but don't know what size? This calculator is designed to help you find a deep cycle battery when a continuous load is applied, not for cranking or starting purposes. Barcodepro 8 1 – professional barcode builder. If you know how much power your application takes to run, and the time you would like to run it, we'll recommend a 12 volt battery with a safe amount of AH (Amp Hours) that will give you the runtime you need.
Walkthrough
At just 2.3 pounds and 0.5 inches thin, the Google Pixelbook Go packs a battery that pushes it for a whole 11 hours and 29 minutes. It's rare to get a Chromebook that lasts this long on a charge. Endurance is actually a set of different tools all bundled together in one app, which can work together or separately to help you to lower your energy usage. Endurance Reviews 3.0. Helps your Mac battery by 20% (beta). Follow this app Developer website. 13 January 2016.
Example | The first Field to enter information into is labeled “Load Size”. This is typically found on the device you are running; for light bulbs it will be in watts and you need divide by the voltage you are running in-typically 12 volts. Other DC devices should be rated in amperage. (Note* if you are running AC devices, you will need to figure out the DC amperage using our AC to DC calculator). For our example we are running a 12 volt 15 amp swamp cooler. |
Example | The second field is labeled “Load Duration”, which is completely up to the user. If you want your load to run for 5 hours, put 5 as in our example shown here. |
Example | The third field, “Temperature Adjustment”, is for adjusting the calculations for extreme temperatures. For our example, it is above 85 deg. F, so check the box. (Note** if you are using Gel batteries in temperatures below 0 deg F, and above -60 Deg F, there is no need to check the box.) |
Example | The fourth field is to adjust for the age of the battery being considered. Since the greatest usage of the calculator is to figure out what battery to buy, usually the box will be left unchecked, as in our example, but it is there in case the batteries available are older. |
Example | The next three fields are for selecting what battery type you are going to use. Choose from Gel, AGM, and Flooded. For our example we select the AGM Battery. |
Example | The final Field is where the calculator waves its magic wand and tells you what you need. This number is rounded to the nearest whole number, and will tell you what battery Amp Hour rating to look for in the selected battery type. |
For our example, our 15 amp swamp cooler will run safely for 5 hours with a 180AH, rated at 20Hours, AGM battery. For a little more detail on the math check out our Math Behind the Magic article. |
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45 people commented, Tech, Jack, Steve, Ray Haws, and 41 others
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- Steve I’m running two 1.25 amp underwater lights I’m trying to power them off of 18650 batteries each battery has 2000mah how many cells will I need to run for at least 2 hrsReply • Ratted article 5 • June 14, 2020 at 10:24 am
- This calculator is for sizing a 12v lead acid battery to an amp load. Unfortunately, our calculators are designed for lead acid batteries. I would suggest contacting a supplier for your 18650 batteries, and see if they have a calculator for your particular battery.Reply • Ratted article 5 • June 15, 2020 at 2:19 pm
- I have a 7' portable tv with a 10watt max power consumption. According to the calculate and conversions I put in, it's telling me I need a 18Ahr battery to run the tv 8 hrs a day safely. So if I get a 35Ahr battery that should be more than sufficiant for me to run the tv 8hrs a day plus, considering all the conditions are correct....am in reading this correctly?Reply • Ratted article 5 • April 12, 2020 at 3:03 am
- If this is a 12v 10 watt device then you would basically be getting an additional day by going to a 35 AH battery.Reply • Ratted article 5 • April 13, 2020 at 9:51 am
- I have a 1000 watt inverter I have a 5amp load 115votts. what size battery do I need to run 7 hours?
- First you have to run your AC amp draw through our Calculator | DC to AC amperage conversion run through an Inverter. That calculator will tell you how many amps you are pulling out of the battery. Then you can use the calculator on this page… I went ahead an found out using the Inverter Calculator that you are pulling 52.90 Amps DC and hour our of the battery pack. That is a high draw if you plan on running off a battery for any length of time.
- I have a small 12 volt, 2.5 amp cab fan. I need to know what type of 12 volt battery to run it for up to 8 hrs at a time.Reply • Ratted article 5 • June 4, 2016 at 2:59 pm
- Based off the calculator, and not doing any adjustments for temperature or age it appears you need a battery at least 44 Amp/Hrs. I would suggest the Universal 12v 55 AH Deep Cycle Sealed AGM Battery UB12550-45825, as it is the closest to that size at this time.Reply • Ratted article 5 • June 9, 2016 at 11:27 am
- Hi Tech, I have 2× 105ah batteries in the tray of the ute, running parallel, using a red arc dual battery system which seems so far keep these batteries topped up, using HD welding cable. From what I have learnt by reading all of the post that means I have 210ah and a 12 volt battery bank. I purchased a10ah smart battery charger, it was half the price and I got a bit excited, my question is will this fully charge these batteries eventually? I realise that 10% amp size for the charger is the recommendation. Also I’m looking at 2× 80w solar panels (160w) foldable with a regulator for each can I plug these two panels together (dual Anderson plug) or will the two regulators confuse each other. Also not keen on burning the car down.
Lastly, trying to fit a square peg in a round hole, what if I was to get a manual battery isolator to split the batteries back to 105ah then just switch the alligator clips between batteries, a bit of stuffing around but wil his charge the batteries fully?
I would like to go camping every month but the reality is 2-3 times a year for only weekends away and 1 week somewhere special. The 4×4 drives around enough to keep the batteries topped up most of the time. But I would still like it set up to work as it should. I run a small fridge led lights all around and basic charging necessities iPad etc.CheersAll the gear and no idea!!! Is my favourite saying….- Mark you typically want to charge at 10% or you risk overworking the charger. Sure the charger will charge the battery bank eventually, but I would consider it mostly a maintainer due to the size of the battery pack. As far as your panels go I would suggest tying them together through one solar charge controller if you are able to, and as long as you don’t exceed that charge controllers rating. By trying to use two on one battery they might interfere with each other, and one might just go to float mode if it sees the battery is at a higher voltage from the charge coming off the other charge controller. As far as moving the charger from battery to battery I simply suggest charging them as a pack, as that is how they are tied together.Reply • Ratted article 5 • May 24, 2016 at 1:20 pm
- Hi, good day, please I have two 12volts/120amp batteries,connected in parallel to my inverter (12volts/1000watts), but I have a rechargeable fan which uses two 12volts/4.5amp batteries connected in series, i want to run the fan/blade directly to the big batteries heads at the same point where the inverter wires join, would it blow the fan? since the difference in amp requirements for the fan is way smaller to the 240amp plus the current from the inverter. Thank youReply • Ratted article 4 • May 18, 2016 at 12:21 pm
- Emeka, If the fan runs off 12v then you can connect it directly to the 12v battery pack. However you say that the fan uses two 12v batteries in series, which if it is in series it is a 24v fan not 12v. Hooking the fan up to a larger battery pack isn’t an issue as long as you get the voltage correct.Reply • Ratted article 5 • May 24, 2016 at 12:20 pm
- See 2/4/13 question from me above in comments. Wondering if we calculated wrong on the front end…Running (9) 17W lights
120 V AC using an inverter powered by two 105 Amp-hr deep cycle AGM batteries in parallel. Average run cycle is 10 hours. Using the inverter calculator, indicates ~14.35 Amps DC load and then running the sizing calculator suggests that I need battery capacity of 306 AH
20 hrs.However, when the 2 105 @ 20 hrs batteries in parallel are used, and then put on charge after use, the batteries typically register 50% charged. I have been using this combo since 2013 approximately 10-15 times per year…. Did we size the system correctly the first time, or should I have used larger capacity batteries- The average life of a battery 3-5 years if you are not excessively discharging the battery beyond 50%. If you always taking it to 50% or even going beyond it from time to time then you will most likely be on the low end of the average, so 3 years out of a battery given your load is to be expected. If you want to increase your battery life I would suggest a large AH rated pack, as the less you pull from the battery the longer they tend to last. However a larger AH rated pack will weigh more, and I believe that you were trying to keep the weight down.Reply • Ratted article 5 • May 11, 2016 at 8:48 am
- I have totaled my setup that I am building in my Cargo Trailer Conversion to be 16.3 Amps. 9 LED 12v lights, A 12Volt Water pump, DC plug/USB Charger/Monitor Combo, and another USB/DC Charger. My lights I will use only when it is dark and when I am awake, the pump is only when I turn the water on. The lights are the lowest amps at .341. The pump is at the highest at 7amps. With such variables in frequency of usage how do i figure the battery needed? The calculator, which has helped me a lot, figures I am using all DC 12volt items the entire time which is not the case. Any suggestion on getting a better feel for how many AH I need in my Deep Cycle Battery? I am looking at one that says @25amps 389 Capacity minutes. What is that compared to 200 AH at 20-Hr Rate? Would this be sufficient for my setup? The calculator shows I would need a 216 AH battery running all items for 6 hours. I could enter each item separately to get amp hours then total the amp hours at the end. Would this be accurate?Thank you again for the calculator resource.
- I do agree figuring out a usage for everything is quite an undertaking, and be difficult if your the one designing the system, versus buying a RV with a manufacturer recommendation. With that said your best bet would be to average each device into the calculator, and then add it all up at the end. However I can tell you that most of our customer that dry camp a lot generally start with a pair of 6 volt deep cycles seen here: RV 6 Volt Batteries. Most people start in the 200 AH range and go and higher if your space permits. If you have any further questions I would suggest emailing us directly via our email support link.Reply • Ratted article 5 • April 12, 2016 at 7:03 am
- For confirmaton: I have a houseboat that uses shore power and does not leave the docks. (No working engines). But I need battery power for occasional use for some overhead 12v lights (about 8 although all would not neccessarily be on, which I understand to be about an amp apiece, a toilet macerator which looks to draw about 13 amps when it is engaged, and 2 automatic bilge pumps that come on if there is water in the bilge (I am variously seeing 4-8 amp estimates on water pumps). In the unlikely event everything were on at once I guess I would be drawing up to 37 amps. I also have a 4 stage converter to keep my batter topped off. So it seems to me that a 50 AH deep cycle battery like your model UB12500-45977 would be sufficient for my needs. Am I missing anything?
thanks
Lee- You don’t want a situation where you are discharging the battery more than 50%. If you lost shore power that would happen in less than an hour. If you feel comfortable with that, then the 50 AH would work.Reply • Ratted article 5 • December 30, 2014 at 8:22 am
- Dear All,
Can anybody Suggest me number of Batteries (Acid) of 200 AH if i have to enpower Load of 1300 Watt for 13 Hours daily.
pls Guide Me Number of Batteries Which should i use???Regards,
AH- Watts/Volts = Amps. Once you have you amp figure you can use the calculator. If you need additional help please contact our TECH Department.Reply • Ratted article 5 • November 19, 2014 at 10:58 am
- I have a question. I want to run a 4000#winch from a portable battery. The winch sucks 240 amp and would run for 20 min max. Should I use a deep cycle RV battery?? and at what AM- HR rating??Reply • Ratted article 5 • October 15, 2014 at 3:53 pm
- Based on the large load your are pulling I would recommend at minimum a 232 AH AGM Battery for that 20min run time.Reply • Ratted article 5 • November 18, 2014 at 11:25 am
- ThanksReply • Ratted article 5 • October 12, 2014 at 6:54 am
- Hello,Kindly shed light on my query. If i have a 12V inverter system, using a 1* 200AH battery and a 48V inverter system which requires 4*200AH battery to get the system to perform. For the 48V system, is the amp hrs calculated as 800AH (4*200ah) or is it still only 200AH since it is connected as a 48V?
- 200AH. Please refer to this article for more details.
- /kb/articles/battery-articles/battery-bank-tutorial.html
- Hello, I have 50W DC fan i need to run 24 hours with the 12V battery. what capacity battery i need to run this fan 24 hours continuously.Thanks
Neeraj- If you plug in the numbers in the calculator it will tell you. If the load is DC at 12 volts, then you are looking at about a 200AH battery.
- This is actualy for a question. On a 12vdc converted to 120v a/c., I want to run a water pump, 120v 8 Amp. But the problem is the starting amps of the pump, which is over 30 amps. How many amps of batteries do I need, and what size and type of inverter? ThanksReply • Ratted article 4 • April 28, 2014 at 3:41 pm
- Im looking at something similar for sump pump and believe you will need an inverter that can handle a 3600 watts start (120vac x 30amps inrush) so maybe a 2000 watt inverter with a 4000 watt peak may work. Thinking pure sine wave for motor.not sure. For Batteries something in the range of 400ah with 30% duty cyle should give you ~4 hours … you need AGM type battery not your typical car/start or marine style…any others our there agree/disagree? Big cables between batteries and inverter!
- lease email your question to [email protected]
- I have 4 cfl’s /12 volt each…they are rated at 15 watts each….wondered what size AH battery I should use to get maybe 5-7 hrs of use out of lights? Would an AGM type battery be okay?
- span>AGM would work fine. If you plug in those numbers, you will find that a 58AH battery will run your load for 5 hrs.
- my load is 15 Watts LED DC what size of battery for me to run 15watts LED DC for 8hrs?
- JB, if you put in the information into the calculator it will tell you. The one factor you still need to know is the system voltage, so that you can get the amperage of the load.
- Hello,I did some checking here‘s what I got from a tech person:“The 0.38A is the operating amperage, the inrush current is typically much higher than that value. The part of the equation that is missing in your calculation is the Power Factor of the lamp, which for almost all CFL lamps is specified as >0.5. Taking into consideration the power factor value, the 23W CFL will consume 23W of power still, but would draw 0.38A at 120V”.Does this change the calculations? Assume 9 lamps, 8 hr run time between charges for simplification
- The draw amount is what we need to calculate with. There is a significant loss of power when energy going into the lamp is actually being used to run it. Therefore, each lamp will pull ~4.1 amps each per hour. For 9 lamps and 8 hours, that‘s a total of 295.2 amps pulled from a 12 volt battery source. My recommendation: 12 volts with at least 600 available Amp Hours. That‘s three 4D size batteries in parallel.
- OK How about (9) 17w LED lamps… I do not yet have amps, but it should be significantly lower – trying to get this down to one manageable battery under 100lbs and running 8 hrs, with less than a 10 hour recharge time.I plan on using a 400 watt inverter to power this project.any comments?
- 17 watts / 12.5 volts = 1.36 amps. 9 of these lights will pull 12.24 amps per hour. running 8 hours is a total of 97.92 amps. The calculator recommend a battery with ~ 200 AH, which is still over 100 lbs of weight. Inverters can add on average 15% inefficiency to the power draw.
- I want to run ten (10) 23w compact fluorescent bulbs rated at 0.380 amps on a 120 v AC system powered by a deep cycle 12 v dc system using a 400 w inverterrun time per day = 10 hours. Maximum run hours between charges = 24 hours… Wasn‘t sure I was using the calulators correctly. How should I size the battery and do you have any comments or suggestions on the inverter I would use
- 0.380 amps x 120 volts = 45.6 Watts, not 23w. Therefore 10 lights will be 456 Watts total per hour. A 400 Watt inverter will struggle with this power.456 Watts will pull ~41 amps from a 12v battery source per hour. For ten hours, that‘s a total of 410 amps pulled. For a battery recommendation I would at least double this number…so any AGM battery bank rated with 820 Amp Hours or more is my recommendation. More is needed for flooded batteries.
- OK, I‘m just reading the information off the lamp. The lamp is rated 23 watts and then also rated 0.380 amps, followed by a color temperature. Can you explain the discrepancy. Since they are self-ballasted is the difference the ballast? Are we looking at a starting current demand vs a run wattage rating? If so, how does this affect the calculations. My suspicion is that the .38 amp rating is based on the ballast… If this is the case, how does this affect my battery capacity planning?Thank you for your assistance
- Unfortunately, I can‘t confirm to you the true power rating of the lamp. Given the uncertainty, I would use the highest power rating to make my calculations from (which I did in my previous comment). It‘s better to size a system for a worst case scenario than not.
- Can i use 3 battries (1 Wet Cell 150Amp and 2 AGM Dry Cell 18Amp) same time on local Transformer base UPS ??
- If you use all three batteries to create a single battery bank, then I would advise against it. The Wet Cell is a much larger battery then the two AGMs. When you bank them together, they behave as one battery. The contrast of battery capacities will cause an uneven charge and discharge cycle.
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Live wallpaper windows 10 free. Having to constantly make a mad dash for the charger every time your Mac’s battery levels approach near depletion can be a pain, especially if you are commuting to work or backpacking on vacation where the nearest power outlet is kilometers away. This is why it’s important that you take steps to optimize your Mac’s battery performance as soon as you get your hands on it to ensure that it’s always in tip-top shape.
There are many ways to do this, and you can find a quick overview from the outline of the contents below.
Contents
- Charge Cycles and How They Affect Your Mac’s Battery Life
- How to Optimize Your Mac’s Battery Performance
- Use Your Mac at Recommended Ambient Temperatures
- Do Not Fully Charge or Discharge Your Mac’s Battery
- Store Your Laptop Properly
- Use Your Mac’s Energy Saver Settings
- Unplug or Switch Off Anything That is Not Being Used
- Use the Activity Monitor to Manage Power Usage
- Turn Off Notifications and Automatic Updates
- Adjust Light Related Settings
Before we get to them, though, you need to find out your Mac’s battery information first (the charge cycle, in particular) so that you will know exactly what to expect from your Mac.
Charge Cycles and How They Affect Your Mac’s Battery Life
Each MacBook battery has a standard charge cycle count. One charge cycle is equivalent to one, full use of your Mac’s battery.* Every time you charge and use your Mac’s battery, one charge cycle gets added to the charge cycle count. Once your Mac’s battery approaches its charge cycle count limit, you will start to see noticeable changes in your Mac’s battery performance, usually either in taking longer to finish one, full charge or your Mac battery lasting a lot shorter than it used to when it was still relatively new.
Standard charge cycles vary among Mac models, but, typically, Macs manufactured in early 2008 and earlier have a standard charge cycle count of 300, Macs manufactured in late 2008 a standard charge cycle count of 500, and Macs manufactured from late 2009 onwards a standard charge cycle count of 1000.
If you want to confirm the standard charge cycle of your MacBook, you can do it by,
- Opening the Apple Menu
- Selecting “System Information.”
- Going to the “Hardware” section
- Selecting “Power.”
- Looking for “Health Information.”
- Looking for Cycle count.
Generally speaking, the higher your Mac’s battery’s charge cycle count, the longer is its expected lifespan — and by extension — the longer each charge can last.
Notes:
*A single charge cycle is based on one, complete charge and discharge of your battery’s power. For example, if you charged your Mac’s battery up to 100 percent and you used it until it was down to 65 percent, then charged it again until it was back to 100 percent, it wouldn’t count as one charge cycle until you’ve consumed the remaining 35 percent from the previous charge.
How to Optimize Your Mac’s Battery Performance
Now that you know your Mac’s battery’s expected lifespan, let’s take a look at some of the most common ways to optimize your Mac’s battery performance.
Use Your Mac at Recommended Ambient Temperatures
MacBooks work at their best when they operate under ideal ambient temperatures (the general temperature of the surrounding environment) which is usually between 62° to 72° F or 16° to 22° C. Once the temperature climbs to more than 95° F (35° C), your battery (and your Mac, in general) may begin to overheat and struggle with performing certain tasks.
Letting this happen for extended periods of time and on a regular basis can cause permanent and significant damage to your Mac and its battery, so try to avoid it as much as much as possible.
If there’s no way to lower down the temperature of the place that you are currently in, try to use a portable laptop fan or cooling pad to help keep your Mac from overheating. Also, make sure that you don’t place your Mac on any surface that may block its ventilation grills like your lap, a mattress, or any other flat surface with no holes to make sure that air can circulate properly.
Do Not Fully Charge or Discharge Your Mac’s Battery
If you are an average Mac user, your first instinct if you want to make the most of your Mac’s battery is probably to charge it to its full capacity. After all, the more charge your battery has left, the longer it is going to last before you need to charge it again, right?
Studies on charging practices and battery life indicate that while that is not necessarily wrong, it might also not be good for your battery’s life span in the long run. This is because each cell of the lithium polymer batteries that your Mac uses is charged to a certain voltage level, and the higher the charge percentage is, the higher the voltage level will be. The more voltage each cell has to store, the more strain it will put your battery under. Keeping your Mac’s battery at this state of tension on a regular basis can eventually lead to fewer discharge cycles which is equivalent to shorter battery life.
Similarly, letting your Mac’s battery become completely discharged is not recommended as lithium-based batteries were designed to hold a certain amount of volts (sometimes 3 volts; sometimes 2) per cell to operate properly. If this goes lower than that, the safety switch meant to prevent the battery from sustaining permanent damage or catching fire can be triggered and cause the battery to shut down and refuse to hold a charge using ordinary chargers.
To avoid putting your Mac’s battery under constant strain, tests suggest that users try their best to keep their laptops at 40-80 percent charge percentage. If that’s not possible, plugging your laptop once it hit 20 percent charge percentage is highly advised.
Store Your Laptop Properly
If you won’t be using your Mac for several days or weeks, make sure that you store it properly, taking extra note of the temperature of the room that you are going to be storing it in and the charge percentage of the battery when you left it.
Leaving your laptop at a room that is either a little too cold or a little too hot for extended periods of time can cause all sorts of damage from internal components freezing up and refusing to work to the battery overheating and eventually catching fire.
Storing your laptop fully charged or completely discharged can also be damaging to your Mac’s battery for the reasons mentioned above, but the damage can be made more significant by the longer amount of time it spends tucked away.
To keep your Mac’s battery healthy while in storage, Apple recommends that you leave it at around 50 percent charge percentage, then store it in a moisture-free room with temperatures between -13° to 113° F (-25° to 45° C).
Use Your Mac’s Energy Saver Settings
Your Mac has different components that, depending on circumstances, can either work together with or independently from one another. You can take advantage of this to optimize your Mac’s battery performance by tweaking its energy saving preferences to tell your Mac what to do with components that are not currently being used.
To do this,
- Go to the Apple Menu.
- Select “System Preferences.”
- Click on “Energy Saver.”
- Tick or tick off boxes according to your preferred settings.
Ticking “Automatic Graphics Switching” will allow your Mac to automatically switch from using its dedicated graphics card to its integrated one and vice versa depending on the tasks that you are currently performing (dedicated graphics card = high-quality games and high-definition videos but faster power discharge; integrated graphics card = non-graphic intensive tasks but slower power discharge).
While you’re at it, you can also specify how many minutes you want to pass since the last detected activity before your Mac goes to sleep, if you want to allow the hard disk to go to sleep if it detects inactivity, if you want it to be awakened if someone tried to access shared resources (applies only when your Mac is connected to a network) or if you want it to go on a power nap until it detects new updates.
Additionally, if you have temporary access to a power outlet, you can also switch from the “Battery” to the “Power Adapter” option so you can save your Mac’s battery for later use.
Unplug or Switch Off Anything That is Not Being Used
Even programs, applications, and peripherals that are not actively being used consume a certain amount of power, so you might want to make a habit of ejecting, unplugging, or switching off anything that you are not currently using in order to make your Mac’s battery last as long as possible.
Some common examples of these are the Wi-fi and Bluetooth connection, CDs or DVDs left in the optical drive and memory cards left in the card slot, printers or scanners that have been left on standby, and removable flash drives that have been left in the USB slot.
Lightwave 3d 2018 0 3 – 3d animation software freeware. On their own, they don’t consume a significant amount of power, but when combined together, they can take a dent on your Mac’s remaining battery charge which can be troublesome if you are running low on power and you won’t have access to a power outlet for a couple of hours or so.
Use the Activity Monitor to Manage Power Usage
Different programs and applications consume different amounts of power. Some hardly consume any, but some are notorious for consuming too much for some user’s comfort.
If you think your Mac’s battery is losing power faster than you think it should, you can use your Mac’s Activity Monitor to check which apps are consuming the most power and stop those that you don’t really need from running in the background.
To do this,
- Go to the Applications Folder.
- Open the “Activity Monitor.”
- Click on the “CPU” tab.
- Click on “All Processes.”
- Click on the “CPU” tab.
- Check if there’s any application that is taking up more than 70% of the CPU.
- Click on the application that you think you don’t need.
- Select “Quit” when asked if you’re sure you want to “kill” the app.
Additionally, you can also find exactly how much impact each running app has on your Mac’s battery from the same panel.
To do this,
- Follow Steps 1 and 2.
- Click on the “Energy” tab.
- Examine the available data. Usually, the app consuming the most energy would be right on top.
- If you think you don’t need it, just quit the app by following Steps 7 and 8 from above.
Turn Off Notifications and Automatic Updates
Your Mac is designed to keep you as updated as possible by constantly fetching new notifications and actively looking for any updates that it might need. While diligence is normally good, having your Mac on battery mode is not the best time for these as they’re going to drain your battery’s remaining charge faster.
If you want to save on power, try to turn off notifications that you don’t need or tell your computer not to look for updates unless prompted.
To turn off notifications,
- Go to the Apple Menu.
- Select “System Preferences.”
- Select “Notifications.”
- Tick off the boxes beside the apps that you don’t want to receive notifications from.
To turn off automatic updates,
- Go to the Apple Menu.
- Select “System Preferences.”
- Click on “App Store.”
- Tick off the box that says “Automatically Check for Updates” and “Download Newly Available Updates in the Background.”
Adjust Light Related Settings
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Every now and then, we find ourselves in situations where we could use some extra light to help us see what we’re doing, but there are also times when we can do away without it, especially if we are already running low on battery.
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To help save on battery consumption, there are two light-related settings that we can adjust: the display brightness and the keyboard backlight.
To adjust display brightness,
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- Look for the increase brightness or decrease brightness keys (the ones that look like suns) and adjust them according to your preferences,
- Or you can automatically adjust your screen’s brightness based on your surroundings’ lighting conditions by,
- going to the Apple Menu
- selecting “System Preferences.”
- clicking on “Displays”
- selecting “Display.”
- selecting “Automatically adjust brightness.”
To adjust your keyboard’s backlight,
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- Go to the Apple Menu.
- Select “System Preferences”
- Click on “Keyboard.”
- Look for the “Adjust keyboard brightness in low light” option and tick the checkbox (If you can’t find this option, you probably don’t have a backlit keyboard).
- If your Mac has a Touch Bar, you can also adjust it by tapping on the left arrow icon in the Control Strip.
These are just some basic tips on how to optimize your Mac’s battery performance. At the end of the day, your battery’s ability to hold a charge as well as its lifespan in general will still be primarily dependent on its technical design, but being proactive in taking care of it definitely won’t hurt either.